POTTED HISTORY NO. 2:
THE SUDBURY SILK TIE
Mulberry tree silk worms and moths
Design for silk by Anna Maria Garthwaite
The Mulberry silk worm has been hard at it since at least 3,500 BC. Initially discovered by the Chinese, silk weaving eventually spread to Italy and then to France. The Hugeonots took it up in Lyons and Tours, but because of religious disagreements they took their trade with them to England in 1685, and thence to Spitalfields. This spot was chosen because it was outside the City walls, where restrictions from the City Guilds could be well dodged.
The Hugeonots were supported by their new country and thrived, teaching their skills to the natives and soon rivalling France in quality of production. But our story is not about peace and understanding. By 1719, fashions had already started changing and some trendsetters preferred to wear imported calico and linen. These unfortunate women were set upon by 4,000 weavers and, when not stripped of their wraps, were drenched in ink, acid and "other fluids".
About this time, Anna Maria Garthwaite set up house in Princelet Street and became the premiere silk weave designer of her day. Her day lasted for three decades and a selection of her designs can be seen at the V & A. But our story does not concern successful women designers. The unrest caused by imported fabric continued to cause great disquiet and, in 1765, Parliament banned a few sundries (like imported silk ribbon) which they hoped might suffice. Instead, 5,000 weavers armed with bludgeons and pickaxes marched on a cabinet minister's house in Bloomsbury Square and riots in that area were launched which lasted nearly a month.
The English would press on in their hankering for French fashion, and the fortunes of the weavers began to decline in earnest. By 1860, all bans on fabric imports were lifted and Spitalfields quickly became famous for other things. And yet our story does not end on a sad note. Ancient Industries are proud to be the purveyors of Sudbury Silk Ties, made from silk woven by a family who were those very Hugeonots before they quitted the city and moved to Suffolk in 1894. The ties are designed and made by Old Town, in Norfolk. All are law-abiding citizens.
